I climbed out, Josie’s engine still idling, and listened. Nothing. No distant dog, no lonely pumpjack. The hush felt ecclesiastical, the kind of silence that makes a man confess things. I imagined stepping into it, camera in hand, only to have Josie refuse resurrection when I returned—no crank, no cough, only that dead-key dread. There was no cell signal here; the map app had long ago entered its blank-screen shrug. A chill tiptoed down my spine. Adventure is a fine thing until you push past the far side of prudence and realize nobody knows where you’ve wandered. I weighed romance against reason, sighed, and let reason win for once.
Back in first gear, windshield fogging from my own breath, I swung west toward Glasgow—the nearest Walmart, civilization’s bright, humming surrogate for shelter. The plan: stake a corner of the parking lot, nap, refuel, find supper in some chain joint that smelled of fryer oil and nostalgia. Simple enough.
Silence Under the Hood
Josie groaned into the far end of aisle N, the place where eighteen-wheelers overnight and shopping carts go to die. Rain still pin-pricked the roof, but the nap that followed felt heavy, dreamless, overdue. An hour, maybe two, until a hunger pang hooked me like a fish. I rolled off the foam pad, shoes on, mind already ordering a double cheeseburger, and slid behind the steering wheel.
Key in. Turn.
Silence.
Not even the polite throat-clear cough of a battery trying. Just—nothing. The gut-punch variety.
I tried again, willed the dash lights to glow. Nothing. That new voltage regulator, the one installed only a week back with all the optimism of fresh gasket sealer, apparently wasn’t the hero I thought. My brain filed through possibilities: loose ground strap, bad ignition switch, poltergeist. The real culprit stepped forward wearing overalls and a smug grin—the alternator. Bigger fish.
I called Steve, my resident Vanagon whisperer, from the edge of the lawn-and-garden section where a single bar of service flickered like a dying filament. “Voltage regulator’s innocent,” I told him. “Battery’s flat dead. Has to be the alternator.” Steve hummed, asked the usual triage, then agreed. “You’re not stuck in that ghost-town void, are you?” he asked. I could hear his grin through the static. “Nope,” I said, “I dodged that bullet by three miles and one cemetery.” He paused a beat. “Lucky.”
Angels in Blue Vests
Now a flurry of tasks unspooled before me, boxes needed ticking in no short order.
Job One: secure an address for overnight shipping. Job Two: Find an alternator—an air-cooled, ninety-amp relic for a forty-two-year-old Volkswagen—in less than twenty-four hours.
I marched through the automatic doors, past the Black Friday displays that had sprouted like kudzu even though Thanksgiving was still ten days out, and flagged the store manager. Squat woman, friendly smile and inquisitive eyes behind discount spectacles, badge reading Carla. I delivered my plea with every ounce of wounded-pilgrim charm I possessed: stranded journalist, vintage van, part needed, FedEx, promise to intercept, no liability on your fine corporation. She winced, rubbed the back of her neck, mumbled something about corporate policy. I pushed. She called district. District put her on hold. We stood there side by side under the fluorescent buzz, both of us hostages to hold-music that sounded like a banjo falling down a stairwell. At last, approval—This once, under supervision, yadda yadda. I had my shipping address.
Finding the alternator proved trickier. Online listings taunted me: In stock! until checkout, when the inventory dissolved like morning frost. Two hours of browser refreshing and I landed on a parts house out west—family-owned, judging by the website design borrowed from 1998. Quantity available: 1. I stabbed the Buy button, paid an unholy sum for overnight freight, and prayed. One step closer.
Night Watch in the Tundra Lot
That evening the rain turned to sleet, pinging off Josie’s tin-top while I hunched over the old alternator with a headlamp, loosening belt tensioner bolts so tomorrow’s swap would go faster. My fingertips went numb; tools slipped. I surrendered and made a hasty retreat to the driver’s seat. I eventually cracked open a can of soup and heated it the camp stove, then let steam blur the windshield. The parking lot carousel spun: minivans, pickup trucks, the occasional sheriff cruiser eyeing my out-of-state tags. None bothered me. I was already part of the night’s tableau, another long-haul pilgrim hugging the sodium glow.
And somewhere between spoonfuls I realized the cosmic joke I’d escaped: had I found Alone proper, I might truly have been alone—dead battery, dead phone, no trucks, no soup steam, just coyote yips threading through tombstones. Sometimes mercy wears the disguise of mechanical failure in a safe zip code.
The Drop
Morning smeared pink over the asphalt. I stationed myself at the store’s receiving door like a faithful dog. The FedEx driver—middle-aged woman with MISS KITTY stitched on her jacket—handed over a box the size of a bowling ball. I signed, thanked her, scurried away before policy could reconsider.
Alternator surgery went smoother than I deserved. Belt off, three bolts out, wiring harness free. The old unit looked fine—aside from the faint rust freckles—but the post-mortem revealed the smoking gun: voltage regulator brushes miles from the commutator ring. I’d installed it cock-eyed, doomed from ignition. Cursed, laughed at myself, and kept wrenching. By noon the rebuilt West-Coast transplant was torqued, belt snug, battery reconnected.
Key in. Turn.
Roar—well, Volkswagen burble, but it sounded like heaven’s trumpets. Idiot lights winked, voltmeter climbed to a hearty thirteen-and-a-half volts. I whooped loud enough to startle a woman loading potting soil into her trunk.
Aftermath Reflections
With Josie idling, I leaned against the fender and watched my breath drift. In the grand ledger of disasters, an alternator in a Walmart lot is small potatoes. Yet it illuminated something bigger: every breakdown contains a fork. Go left and rage at circumstance. Go right and harvest a story, maybe a scrap of gratitude. I remembered the cemetery marker: ALONE. No dates, no epigraph. Maybe the town had died because folks gave up when the mill closed or the tracks were pulled up. Maybe they’d lost the will to improvise.
Glasgow wasn’t Alone. Carla the manager, Miss Kitty the driver, the unseen warehouse clerk pulling the last alternator—they’d formed an accidental pit crew to keep a stranger’s story rolling.
I tightened the last bolt and wiped my hands on a rag so patched it resembled a Depression quilt. I climbed in, Josie rumbled forward, tires hissing on wet pavement, nose aimed south where another small-town water tower waited to test my resolve.
Ghost towns can keep their secrets. I’d trade any graveyard of lost houses for the living hum of a 14-volt charge, a warm can of soup, and the knowledge that even corporate bureaucracy sometimes bends in service of an aging van and the fool who drives her.
And if the next back-road dream lures me toward another spectral dot on the map, I’ll still chase it—but I’ll double-check my wiring, carry a spare alternator, and whisper thanks to all the anonymous hands that pulled me back from being truly, capital-letter Alone.
I’d come hunting ghosts—specifically, the ghost town of Alone, Kentucky, a name that felt less like geography and more like prophecy on a morning like this. The map insisted the settlement once sat just off this road, but several passes back and forth on this rain slick two-lane failed to turn up even the hint of a former town, except for the cemetery.
Here was a rectangle of iron fence, ragweed curling through the pickets, stones leaning like tired shoulders after a long harvest. Alone Cemetery the carved marker read, no dates, no flourish—just that single word daring heaven to prove otherwise. Headlights glanced off wet granite as I idled Josie at the shoulder. Rows of names—and among them, a scattering of unchiseled lamb statues for children gone before their first corn shuck—slid past beneath the wipers. And that was it. Beyond the gates lay nothing but soy stubble. The town itself had vanished so thoroughly even its bones were shy.