Thanksgiving Freebies

I rolled into Munfordville, Kentucky, carried there not by plan or prophecy but by that peculiar instinct a traveler acquires after too many nights in gas-station parking lots—a tug in the gut that says turn here, slow down, breathe the air

Munfordville is more whistle-stop than city: three intersecting streets, a courthouse that looks as though it’s holding its breath, and a population smaller than most suburban high-school graduating classes. From the driver’s seat of Josie, the place resembled Mayberry if Mayberry had lost its barber shop and half its optimism.

Nothing in particular summoned me except the calendar. Thanksgiving crouched ten days down the road, and the thousand dollars of Hope-and-Generosity cash I kept tucked in the glove box burned hotter than a coal stove. I’d been slipping the bundles to unsung saints across the heartland—farmers, foster grandmas, a pastor that served as an unwitting front man for a disaster-wracked town—one snap-banded stack at a time. But the mileage and the monotony had left me itchy for something bolder, something that would tilt the whole day.

The idea came simple and sudden: buy every frozen turkey in town and hand them out, no questions asked. If Hope and Generosity were worth their salt, they ought to be able to dress a few Thanksgiving tables.

I pulled Josie into the lot of the employee-owned IGA just after the noon. The storefront held a sun-faded mural of pumpkins and wheat stalks. Inside, refrigeration units hummed with the measured weariness of men who’ve worked third shift too long. I asked for the manager and waited fifteen minutes between end-caps of evaporated milk and canned sweet potatoes. When she finally arrived, she scanned me the way a barn cat sizes up a stranger at the milk pail—equal parts curiosity and mistrust.

“Good afternoon,” I began, extending a hand and the best grin I could muster after two hundred road miles. “Name’s Brock Meeks. I’m on a little journey called the Hope & Generosity Tour.” Her expression said pshaw before she even opened her mouth.

“I’m not here to sell you anything,” I hurried on. “Matter of fact, I’d like to buy something from you—in bulk.”

“How bulk?” Arms folded, one brow cocked.

“A thousand dollars’ worth of frozen turkeys. Every bird you’ve got in the freezer, plus whatever you can pull from the back room or borrow from the next truck. Then I’d like to give them away, right here at your registers.”

Silence. Somewhere deep in the store a produce clerk dropped a cantaloupe; it hit the floor with a dull thunk that echoed down the aisle like punctuation.

“I’ll have to call headquarters,” she said at last.

“Headquarters?” I blinked. “Ma’am, I’m literally handing you a stack of twenties. Isn’t that the dream? Cash, no chargebacks, no coupons?”

She studied me; the fluorescent lights put hard white half-moons in her eyes. “We still need product on the shelves when folks come back tomorrow, sir. Thanksgiving’s coming.”

“That’s the point,” I said, softer now. “We can make tomorrow for a lot of people.”

But policy is a trellis that good intentions seldom climb. She promised to phone her superiors, took my card, and ushered me out with an apologetic smile that never reached her eyes. I spent the afternoon nursing burnt coffee in Josie’s jump seat, waiting for a call that never came. When I rang back, she answered with the voice of someone already braced for fallout: “Headquarters says no.”

Fine. If generosity couldn’t squeeze through the front door of the IGA, I’d find a side window.

On the edge of town sat a squat cinder-block Save-A-Lot, the kind of store that stocks motor oil four feet from condensed soup because floor space is democracy and everything pays the same rent. I expected another corporate blockade, but the manager—square-jawed, sleeves pushed up—heard me out without flinching. He summoned Dalton, the meat guy, a farm-boy philosopher whose forearms were roped with muscle and freezer burn.

“So you want every turkey in the building,” Dalton said, eyes bright.

“Yes, sir. Then we stand at the end of the checkout counter and give ’em away.”

Dalton scratched his chin, grinned, and said the words I hadn’t realized I was desperate to hear: “Well, shoot—why not?”

We wheeled pallet jacks to the back, heaved shrink-wrapped birds from wire cages into shopping carts. Thirty on the sales floor, another thirty thawing in the walk-in, birds bigger than bowling balls. The manager began ringing them up. The register screen climbed: until the tally hit nine-hundred-seventy-four dollars and some change with the last bird. I handed him a stack of twenties. “Here’s a $1,000,” I said, and felt something inside me click into alignment—like an engine catching after a long crank.

We stacked the turkeys in three shopping carts and waited. The first taker was a grandmother with paper-thin skin and a cart full of store-brand ramen. She eyed the birds, then me, then the birds again as though expecting a punchline. “What’s the catch?”

“No catch, ma’am. We’re just saying thanks.”

Tremor in her hands. She chose a twelve-pounder like it might hatch. “Bless you,” she whispered, voice small as a sparrow.

Word spread fast. Customers left the checkout, wheeled back to the turkey mountain, and left again smiling like kids with contraband. A burly road-crew worker lifted a bird high over his head and whooped loud enough to rattle the aisle. A young mother clutched hers to her chest, tears tracking her cheeks. A man with hands as big as hams bear-hugged me. “You’re doing a great thing, bless you,” he said. An older woman stepped up along side and in a voice softer than a spring mist said, “without your gift, I was afraid we’d have to eat Thanksgiving out of a can.”

Not everyone applauded. One woman, perfume sharp as vinegar, wrinkled her nose. “These the cheap birds? I need at least twenty pounds.” I shrugged, handed her the biggest I had, and she huffed out the door. Generosity doesn’t always land soft, but it lands.

Inside an hour the turkeys dwindled to a single frost-blistered hen. I gave it to a kid in a letterman jacket whose ears reddened when he tried to say thanks. We high-fived, breath visible in frozen turkey. 

Outside, dusk settled like a hen on her clutch. I lingered near Josie and let the scene percolate: townspeople staggering under the weight of birds twice the size of last week’s grocery budget, kids dragging plastic-wrapped drumsticks through the gravel because helping Mom was heavy and joy was light. Every face wore surprise, the kind money can’t buy because it’s forged in the instant between disbelief and delight.

Munfordville’s main drag runs only six blocks from the bridge over Green River to the limestone bluff where the old cannon points at nothing in particular. I ambled those six blocks, sneakers scuffing leaf-litter, letting the town seep in. A barber pole still turned outside the shop, though the barber himself had passed two winters ago. Across the street the feed store windows were clouded with dust and tape-X’s, a casualty of big-box economics. 

I ducked into a café for supper, ordered meatloaf because it really was the “blue plate special.” The waitress—hair piled in a hurricane of bobby pins—asked, “You that turkey fellow?” When I admitted as much she filled my coffee mug without charge.

While I ate, the door kept swinging on its cracked spring. Customers carried stories in behind them:

  • “My sister swore somebody’d try to sell her a timeshare, but it was just a gentleman giving away supper.”

  • “We’re frying turkey this year, first time since Daddy died.”

  • “The Lord moves mysterious, but He don’t usually use a Save-A-Lot.”

Their words built like grace notes, then a chord that kept building, until the whole café hummed with it. I paid the check—tacked on a large tip because gratitude spends easy—and stepped back into the cold.

Night had nailed itself to the sky. Stars began to punch through like tacks in black velvet. Josie’s engine coughed once, then settled into her usual sewing-machine rhythm. I drove out to the county fairgrounds, found an unlit corner near the livestock barn, and parked. Heat from the day still curled off the engine’s tin; inside, straw smelled sweet and horsey. I boiled water on the camp stove, made some hot chocolate, and sat on the bumper sipping nostalgia.

And that was the moment a stray dog trotted up, ribs like barrel staves under brindle fur. He eyed me, eyed the cup, and sat. Conversation between species flowed: I told him about the turkeys, how hope is heavier than fear when wrapped in plastic and passed hand to hand. He listened, head cocked, then inched closer until his nose touched my foot. I tossed him a peanut-butter granola bar; he pounced on it with surgeon’s care. We watched the stars together, two drifters sharing silence. On the last sip, as if on cue, he rose, thumped his tail, and vanished.

Later, as Josie’s furnace heat faded and the night pressed its cold nose against the windshield, the silence invited questions I hadn’t bothered to ask.

Why turkeys?
Because a turkey sits center of a table, and a table sits at the center of a family. And family—however frayed—sits at the center of what keeps us from unraveling. I’d spent weeks handing out money to strangers, but sometimes cash feels abstract, bloodless. A turkey is tangible: weight in the crook of an elbow, frost stinging the forearm, promise thawing slow in a crowded fridge. 

Why here? Why now?
Because I was tired of being on the sidelines—parachuting into grief, scribbling notes, escaping before the aftershocks. Because generosity had begun to feel transactional, a ledger of giving and reporting. I needed a gesture too large for the journalistic notepad, something that couldn’t be footnoted away.

The dark hummed with the question that dogs every do-gooder eventually: Was this really altruism, or just another ego trick—me proving to myself I could tilt the day like a pinball machine and watch the lights flash?

I answered to the ceiling of the van, half-ashamed: maybe a bit of both. The older I get, the more I believe purity is for angels and daydreamers. Humans muddle motives. I decided I could live with muddled motives if it meant sixty-seven strangers carving meat they couldn’t afford..

Still, a pebble of doubt rattled the hollow tin can of my conscience. What good had I really done at the end of the day? There’s a school of thought that says real charity empowers rather than replaces. I spun that critique like a stone in my palm, turning it over for sharp edges. In the end I set it down. Folks didn’t look dependent when they left—just relieved. Relief is a kind of power too.

Another voice—this one suspicious, editor-sharp—whispered: Will you write about this and polish yourself up like a brass halo? Of course I will; ink is the only currency I’ve ever truly owned. But I vowed right then to write the blemishes alongside the shine: the first manager’s refusal, the one lady sniffing for a bigger bird, my own ego glowing like taillights in the rearview.

And then the biggest mother question, the one that’s always asked, whether given voice or not: Will any of this matter in a week, a month? Will those turkeys translate to long-term hope or just a single good meal in a season of scarcity? The honest answer: I don’t know. But I’ve come to suspect that goodness doesn’t always scale; sometimes it’s just a pulse, a blip on a monitor that reminds the patient the heart is still beating. Maybe tomorrow they’ll need another pulse. Maybe someone else will provide it—or maybe they’ll provide it for each other. Either way, I’m claiming this one a win.

I crawled into Josie’s bunk. The van’s lack of insulation let in every cricket scrape and pickup-truck whine from the highway, but beneath it all buzzed a quieter frequency: satisfaction, low and steady. Not pride—that’s too sharp an instrument. More like the ache in a farmer’s back after a harvest safely binned. A day’s work, honest and weighty.

Morning cracked open with a rooster from the next farmyard. I boiled more coffee and paged through the local weekly someone had left on the café counter. Before rolling east I swung by Save-A-Lot to thank Dalton and the manager once more. They were resetting the end caps, filling the gap my purchase had left. Dalton pointed to a pallet of new birds. “Truck came at five,” he said. “Looks like God’s got logistics covered,” he winked. 

I left Munfordville lighter by a thousand dollars, heavier by the kind of riches banks can’t ledger.

Driving away, I reflected on the day's events, it certainly wasn’t scripted. There were unexpected obstacles. Perhaps that was just the way of things.The road stretched out before me, the landscape yawning. I didn't know–didn’t care–where Josie and I would land next. For now, I was content to believe I’d spun up several Thanksgiving dinners where none might have been. Kindled a spark of hope. And that, I thought, was worth every twist and turn along the way.

Josie's 'Free Space'

Living on the road really sharpens your discipline. There is a place for everything and everything in its place. If you don’t religiously adhere to that practice, you’re doomed.
 
Whenever I have to pull something out of my storage cabinets, it’s like playing Tetris because I have to move so many things around, not the least of these being that 5-gallon Jerry can full of gas.
 
This picture gives you some idea of what I’m dealing with. This image show you the entirety of my “free
space” in the van (shoes for reference). It’s not exactly ballroom dancing.
 

A Laundromat By Any Other Name

The sign out front advertised itself without apology: LAUNDRY MAT—hand-painted letters drifting downhill on a sun-bleached sheet of plywood wired to two split cedar posts. No address, no promises. Just the stark fact of a place where dirty things might become less dirty—for a fee. 

 
Inside, the room was small enough to hear your own pulse. Two dozen aluminum tubs sat in crooked rows like aging soldiers on half pay. A handful still fought the good fight; the rest bore crimson tags—OUT OF SERVICE—scotch-taped above coin slots that had swallowed their last quarter sometime during the Clinton administration. Wherever a machine lay dead, someone had pushed an orphan café chair against it, as if the cadaver deserved a mourner. 
 

Prices were posted on fluorescent paper: WASH $5.25 DRY $4.00. You could see, in ghostly outline, the figures that came before—$3.75, $2.50—faded beneath fresh marker, a quiet history of inflation written layer upon layer. There wasn’t another washer for thirty miles; the owners understood leverage.

A thin woman with a nicotine rasp poked an unlit Camel unfiltered cigarette from one corner of her mouth and minded the change machine like a tollbooth worker, exchanging tens for jangling fistfuls of quarters. Her husband, a man the shape and color of a spent corncob, sat beside her, chewing a lukewarm hamburger and gazing into the middle distance as if expecting revelation from the Coke machine. No words passed between them. Maybe none were necessary after half a lifetime marinating in the same silence.

 
 

I claimed a washer that groaned but didn’t leak, fed it coins, then smacked the coin box just as the paper sign instructed—TAP IF NO START. The drum lurched into motion with the indignant whine of a mule asked to plow rocky soil. I lowered myself onto a cracked vinyl bench and watched the suds churn, the same way small-town folks once watched flames in a pot-bellied stove: hypnotized, contemplative, vaguely resigned.

Hours on the road leave a man coated in road dust and thought-dust alike. Shirts stiff with sweat, jeans gone shiny at the knees, socks stiff as salted pork. But the heavier grime is internal—the buildup of doubt and low-grade fear that slowly chalks the gears. That filth doesn’t drop neatly into a rinse cycle.

I’d set out months earlier, flush with purpose: uncover stories of ordinary generosity, pass along bundles of twenty-dollar bills to the unsung, stitch some kind of patchwork gospel about hope in mean times. Back home, the idea played like a brass band. Out here—pop. eight hundred and change, machines on the fritz—it sometimes felt more like a lone harmonica wheezing out of tune.

The dread arrived on schedule every dawn: a solid knot just north of my stomach. The day’s assignment was both clear and vague—find the next heart, coax the next story—but nothing about approaching strangers gets easier with practice. There is always that instant when a man, hand on a café door, wonders if he’s a traveler or a trespasser.

I told myself the road was research, that mileage was prerequisite. Truth was, miles could be camouflage. If I kept Josie’s wheels spinning—familiar hum at fifty-eight miles per hour—I could postpone the moment I’d have to walk into a feed store or Beauty-N-Barber and ask somebody to unwrap their life. The pavement became a ribbon of excuses.

The drum slowed, clanked to a stop. I hauled out wet cargo pants, the load unexpectedly heavy—like carrying a pail of rainwater uphill. Every task feels weightier when done alone. I thought of Brenda, a thousand miles east, back in a house that no longer held my jacket on the back of the chair or my toothbrush in the cup. Thirty-five years sharing a roof and suddenly distance makes everything echo.

People assume time apart gets easier with experience, but the arithmetic works in reverse: the longer the marriage, the bigger the hollow it leaves. At night in Josie’s fold-down bunk the quiet is so thick, her analog clock ticking each second away, never to be regained, ever closer to sunrise.

I pumped quarters into a dryer and spun the dial. Nothing. Dead motor. Tried another—same result. The cigarette woman strolled over, struck the side panel with her hip, and the dryer bellowed awake. “Just got to show it who’s boss,” she muttered, smoke sagging from her Camel like a laundry line.

I asked how long she’d owned the place. “Own?”—she snorted—“Lord, honey, we just keep it from fallin’ down till the owners cash their rent checks.” She said it without bitterness, as if that arrangement was the natural order of existence. Folks around here do plenty of things not because they’re paid well, but because they need doing and nobody else has stepped up.

The dryer roared, coughing hot breath across the room. I realized that woman probably had a story thick as river mud, but I lacked the nerve to pry. Fear wearing a mask of courtesy.

Eleanor Roosevelt advised doing one thing each day that scares you. Sound counsel, but she never specified how to manage thirteen such tasks before lunch. My list of daily terrors is prodigious: cold-calling a reverend, navigating two-lane backroad traffic in a forty-two-year-old van, asking a waitress if the pie recipe is her own, nodding goodnight to an idling police cruiser in a Walmart lot. Lately even dialing Brenda’s number clenches my throat—worried I’ll broadcast fatigue she can do nothing about.

Still, every so often courage outruns caution. I park Josie, step into a roadside diner, and introduce myself. I mention the Hope & Generosity Tour. Most folks lean back, arms crossed, suspicion thick as sorghum. Then the hinge flips—maybe it’s just the relief of finally being seen—and words spill. An hour later I’m scribbling quotes, heart jackhammering because I know I’ve caught a glint of real gold. Those are the moments that buoy all the lonely miles.

But bravery is temporary. By next dawn the tank is empty again, and the road stretches like penance for an unnamed sin.

The dryer dinged. I packed still-warm clothes into a pillowcase, the smell of cheap detergent mingling with cigarette drift. Outside, dusk claimed the little main street. Windows winked amber, and the only moving speck was a pickup nosing toward the gas station. A rusty train horn moaned somewhere beyond the ridge.

I leaned against Josie, hugging the bag, and watched the sky bruise from lilac to indigo. The loneliness felt physical, a small, heavy animal curling behind my ribs. I wondered: What if I quit? Turn east, hammer the interstates, be home in two days? All it would cost is the narrative I’d sold to myself—that uncovering scattered kindness was necessary, even noble.

Regret would be worse. That knowledge kept my feet planted. I pictured tomorrow: another county, another small church or county extension office, another time I’d force words past cottonmouth and ask a stranger to tell me why they give more than they take. And somewhere down the line, another bundle of twenties sliding across a table, another set of widened eyes, another shock of tears. That exchange is addictive. It crackles like static in dry air, resetting the world’s circuitry for an instant.

I dug in my pocket, thumbed the snap-banded stack—my remaining ammunition. Each bundle had weight disproportionate to its monetary value, as if heavy with possibility. Fear wilted a little.

I climbed into the driver’s seat. Josie’s cabin smelled of gearbox oil, my last gas station fill-up, and Denty Moore Beef Stew from a can. Window down. The fragrance of cut hay in the air. In the ditch, a chorus of insects tuned up for the night’s performance. And somewhere, fluorescent bulbs did their best to keep a promise of even light—pale lanterns over a graveyard of machinery.

Engine coughed, settled into idle. Headlights carved a shaky path down the deserted street. Maybe tomorrow I’d strike up a conversation with the cigarette woman. Maybe she’d talk about sons moved away or rent overdue. Maybe I’d write it down and mail off another story to the invisible audience riding shotgun in my imagination.

The road unfolded ahead, a dark ribbon curving toward the county line. I eased onto it, gears whining in protest, heart ticking between fear and resolve. Laundry done, doubts merely rinsed, not bleached—still damp, but carryable.

Miles to go. Stories to find. And somewhere, a home light burning steady, waiting for tires on asphalt and a porch step footfall cadence under familiar weight.

I touched the wheel, whispered to the windshield, “Let’s keep at it, girl,” and let Josie hum into the night.

A Man for All Seasons

In Dawson Springs, Kentucky, Jeff Winfrey met his crucible twice over when back-to-back tornadoes demolished his town.

First came the tornado of December 2021, that ripped through the town like a ravenous beast. Then, as if the universe hadn't had its fill, another tornado barreled in on a late May evening earlier this year, turning what was left into kindling debris and dust.

Jeff wasn't the guy from central casting chosen to be a community leader. Retired dentist and pastor of a small Primitive Baptist Church, he was content. "I'm a nobody from nowhere," he’ll tell you, shrugging off any notion of grandeur. But disaster drafts its own infantry, and Jeff got called up.

"The recovery is still ongoing," he told me in the small, neatly appointed office of his church. A church whose picture became the poster child for the horrendous tornado damage done, owing to the amount of destruction that had laid waste to its structure. A picture of the destroyed church played out on front pages of newspapers and in broadcasts across the nation. "It's still ongoing from the first one. We've still got a lot of people needing help that way." 

"I'm a nobody from nowhere," he’ll tell
you, shrugging off any notion of grandeur.

The first tornado had obliterated rental properties, displacing the town's most vulnerable—the elderly on fixed incomes, folks on disability scraping by on rice and beans, families who couldn't afford a mortgage even if you gift-wrapped a house for them. "People lost everything they had," Jeff said. "That group right there has been difficult to help."

And for the first time in anyone’s memory, Dawson Springs has a homeless population that lives in corners and the shadows that only a small town can manufacture.

Jeff saw the widening cracks in the system, the people slipping through like smoke into the gray. He became a reluctant linchpin in the town's rebuilding efforts, stepping up as the pastor of a modest church that suddenly found itself a magnet for out-of-state donations. "Money started pouring into this church," he said. "People were calling, and they wanted to help our town or help our church. They didn't want to give to big-name groups” because they were concerned the money would be siphoned off to pay organizational administrative costs, Jeff said. “I want my money to go help somebody,” was a refrain he heard time and time again.

With a mix of humility and a no-nonsense sense
of duty, Jeff took on the role of steward.

With a mix of humility and a no-nonsense sense of duty, Jeff took on the role of steward for these unexpected funds. "When I spend this money, I would think that you'd be happy if you were standing right beside me," he promised the donors. "And I know the Lord's standing beside me.” 

It was a learning process tempered by adversity. “I've blown it,” he says. “I've messed up sometimes. I've been conned."

But setbacks didn't slow him down. Jeff successfully navigated a sea of committees, board meetings, and strategy sessions. Habitat for Humanity, Catholic Charities, he teamed up any outfit willing to roll up their sleeves. "We worked together well," he said of such alliances. "And that was a good experience. Has been, still."

The weight on his shoulders was palpable. "You do carry a lot of weight sometimes it feels like," he said. "The load gets sort of heavy when you hear a lot of problems." He remembers standing in the wreckage, fearing the worst for friends and neighbors. "I just stood there and wept," he said. "Those kinds of memories just... I'll never lose that,” he said, his voice tailing off into a whisper.

Public opinion is fickle, and often caught the brunt of it. "People are people," he said. "You've got some that's got their hand out that don't need it, and you've got others that need more than what we've got." He faced his share of armchair critics and social media snipers. "I've had my name plastered on Facebook because I'm on these committees," he said. "You can do nothing, and nobody will ever say anything bad about you. You can try to do something and take the risk... then somebody else is mad at you 'cause you didn't build them [a house]."

"If we're going to err, let's err on the side of love."

Still, his guiding principle remains unshaken. "If we're going to err, let's err on the side of love," he says. Can’t please everyone, he knows that, it was never the mission anyway. The mission was to keep moving, even when the road was littered with potholes and second-guessers.

One Christmas morning, pockets stuffed with rolled-up hundred-dollar bills in $500 bundles from the donated cash, Jeff walked the ravaged streets. He approached a lifelong acquaintance who was sifting through the debris that used to be his home. "This isn't going to get back what you lost, but Merry Christmas," Jeff told him, handing over the money. "I had guys twice my size pick me up off the ground and tears just flowing off their face," he said. In that moment, a slim stack of bills became more than just money; it was raw hope. 

Jeff doesn't see himself as a hero—far from it. "I've been told, ‘you're not the pastor of this church; you're Dawson Springs' pastor,’" he said, almost sheepishly. "I'm saying that, and I feel real small by saying that because I'm not supposed to be bragging." He's acutely aware of his own imperfections and the limitations that come with being human. "You can't change them," he said about the naysayers and opportunists. 

He didn't ask to be the face of Dawson Springs, but when
the role landed on his doorstep, he also didn't flinch.

But he keeps at it. He shows up to every meeting, signs up for every committee that needs a hand, and visits every home where a comforting word might make a difference. He's stared down the barrel of fury and witnessed the darker angels of human nature, yet he refuses to back down.

And so it goes. Amid the tapestry of small-town America, Jeff’s example stands as testament to resilience. He didn't ask to be the face of Dawson Springs. When the role landed on his doorstep, he didn't flinch. By stepping up, he offers a blueprint of what can happen when a community chooses unity over division, action over apathy.

At the end of our time together, I slipped another $1,000 stack from my pocket and pushed it his way. His eyes grew wide. Speechless. “No strings attached,” I said, launching into my usual patter about giving back to those who seek nothing in return for all they do. He began to openly weep.

“This just keeps happening,” he said, wiping his eyes. “Are you an angel?” he said, straight up, no smile or joking implied. At first I thought of saying, “Well, I couldn’t tell you, even if I was,” but opted for the obvious truth. “No, no,” I said with a chuckle. “I’m far from it.” I asked what he thought he might do with the money.” 

At first he said he’d just give it back to me, a donation to help me keep going. I politely refused the gesture. “Well, there’s any number of folks who could use this,” he said. “I promise you this, I’ll multiply this money.” 

He folded the bundle into calloused palms—careful, almost fearful of bruising something tender and alive. Lips moving without sound, a silent prayer rolling beneath his breath. Then he lifted his gaze toward the shattered horizon—the same one that had twice tried to flatten his town—and I watched resolve rise behind his tear-rimmed eyes like dawn behind broken rafters. He shook his head, a slow, reverent motion, as though the possibilities were too wide to name. “Whatever it becomes,” he said finally, voice steadying, “it’ll be seed in good soil.”

We stepped outside. The late-afternoon light poured across the scarred streets. Somewhere a hammer struck, sharp and rhythmic as a choir of cicadas tuned up for evening. He tucked the money inside his worn leather Bible, pressed it shut, and laid a broad hand over the cover—part oath, part blessing.

“Stay the night,” he said. “I have a parking spot in front of my shed with your name on it.” A safe harbor. He also promised a shore power electrical connection I could plug into the side of Josie so I could use the 110v outlets I’d installed in her living space. I gratefully accepted.

In the morning he invited me in. His wife offered to cook up a good ol’ country breakfast; I opted for a bowl of cereal instead. 

“Thank you for believing in us,” he said.

I told him belief was easy. All a man had to do was stand on this cracked pavement and listen. The hard part, I said, was to drive away and leave that music behind. 

He laughed then, soft and grateful, and we clasped hands in the dust that had drifted in from Main Street—two travelers headed in different directions, carrying the same small flame. I climbed into Josie and eased her onto the road, the town receding in the mirror. Behind me, the pastor turned toward the rubble and the rising walls, pockets heavy with promise—and richer than ever for it.

On the Road Again

UPDATE: new voltage regulator is in and it appears that everything is back to normal.
 
Only took me an hour and that’s because I had to thread two screws in blind. And one of those screws took me a full half hour to line up and screw in. Ugh.
 
 
In the pictures you can see the dramatic difference between the old VR and the new. The new one has two “brushes” standing straight and tall. The old one only has one brush in good condition, while the other is 100 percent worn out!
 
 
These machines constantly amaze me.
 
We’ll be back on the road tomorrow!

Travels

We're going nowhere and anywhere and we're not going fast. Traveling in Josie, this 42-year-old VW Vanagon is not an exercise in speed. She's pushing all of 67 horsepower; top speed rarely nudges above 60-mph. But this forced constraint means you have to slow down, giving you time to absorb the landscape, rather than curse the absence of an exit with amenities.

States
Miles
Motel Rooms
Hamburgers

What People Are Saying

Tour News

What's New on the tour?

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Compass Point
After a whirlwind trip through Oklahoma, I'm now heading across Arkansas.
Fleeting Thoughts
Road trips may sound romantic and adventurous, these are seductions. Truth is, the loneliness of the road eats at you constantly.
Cuisine
Pro tip: Dinty Moore Beef Stew in a can will get you through the night, but it's not winning a Michelin star any time soon.