Orlinda, TN

Dawn in the northern belly-lands of Tennessee arrives like a slow blessing, sliding over the smooth shoulders of the Highland Rim. Out there—caught between the quilted hills and the first pale wash of sunlight—rests Orlinda, population eight-hundred-and-change if you trust the green metal sign at the county line, fewer if you ask the postmaster who sees the forward-mail slips. It’s the sort of place that maps render with a dot scarcely wider than a fruit fly’s footprint, yet the countryside knows it by heart: a soft swell in the road, a remembered whistle of a depot long dismantled, the constant breath of wind in the winter rye.

A town that never shouts

Orlinda is not a town that elbows for attention. It hums. It murmurs. It keeps a metronome cadence—tick of seed drills in March, tock of combines in September, the slow winter silence in between. Main Street, two blocks long and exactly two parking meters wide, still dreams of its shinier decades. There is the shell of the Mercantile with its sun-bleached Coca-Cola ghost ad; beside it the barber pole that hasn’t turned since the first Bush administration. Across the street stands the grain elevator—once the tallest thing in three counties—now idle, oxidizing gently in the humid air. Pigeons roost where machinists once yelled over the clatter of augers, and the rail spur that carried dark-fired tobacco all the way to the ports of Mobile slumbers under Johnson grass.

Older residents recall that elevator as the town’s great clock tower: the early shift began when its machinery rumbled alive, school let out when the afternoon whistle blew, and supper waited until the last truck dumped its load at dusk. Folks boast—quietly, in the Orlinda manner—that in 1953 a single week’s grain receipts topped anything shipped west of the Mississippi; hard to verify now, but truth has always blurred kindly with pride in these parts.

Hollywood on the Highland Rim

For fifty-odd years not much disturbed the familiar melody—until 1986, when a caravan of white trailers, camera cranes, and wide-brimmed producers thundered down State Route 52. The film was The Last Days of Frank and Jesse James, and for a quick lick of time the placid streets filled with the fragrance of coffee from craft services and the baritone laughter of Johnny Cash. Locals rented out pastures for crew parking, baked pies for the stuntmen, watched Kris Kristofferson chew scenery on the porch of the old Feed & Seed. A teenage cashier at the diner still keeps the script page Kristofferson autographed, laminated and tucked behind the pie case. Those two weeks of lights-camera-action were Orlinda’s flirtation with fame—bright, giddy, and then gone as sudden as it came, leaving behind only anecdote and a battered clapboard false-front stored in the city shed.

Yet even that cameo did not jolt the town onto a new trajectory. The crews packed up, Hollywood’s echo faded from the cedar groves, and Orlinda returned to its rhythm—maybe with a slightly straighter spine, knowing it had once hosted legends and handled the fuss just fine.

Lean years and stubborn acres

What did tarry, however, was change of a quieter, crueler sort. Federal supports shifted; global markets demanded cheaper corn; the big elevator in Springfield undercut hauling rates. One by one the trucks stopped queuing at dawn. When the mill idled for good, an entire wing of Orlinda’s daily song fell silent. Nobody staged a protest. Out here they seldom do. They simply carried the news home with them like an unwanted letter and decided what to plant come April.

Shops along Main began shuttering—first the shoe repair, then the drugstore, finally the hardware store where nails were once scooped from oak bins. The clerk at the last open counter started stocking more cat food and fewer fishing lures. Young folks disappeared with startling speed.

And yet, on Sunday mornings the parking lot of Orlinda Baptist Church still overflows onto the grass, because faith here is older than railroads and less volatile than soy futures. At dawn you can see headlights bobbing like fireflies down the gravel lanes. Come July, neighbors gather on porch swings, gossip flitting across the hushed twilight like barn swallows. Resilience is seldom heroic. Instead, it looks like stocking shelves, mowing churchyards, or coaxing that 1998 Silverado through one more winter with duct tape and baling wire.

Twilight covenant

Come evening, the land itself seems to lean closer, hushed by whip-poor-wills. The sun folds behind the ridge, sending slow lavender bands across hayfields already silvering with dew. Porch lamps glow like votive candles. Someone strums a guitar in 3/4 time; another answers with a harmonica so faint you’re not sure whether you imagined it. Stories drift across fence lines. They are told not to impress outsiders (there are none) but to remind themselves they have lived and are still living.

Orlinda will likely never regain the rumble of those freight cars nor the flashbulb glamour of Hollywood. That is not its aim. Its covenant is simpler: hold the ridge against forgetting; raise corn, children, and gravestones with equal care; prove, season after season, that small does not mean slight. In a nation that tapes billboards to every skyline, Orlinda’s virtue is to remain a handwritten note in the margin—a modest scrawl the story would be poorer without.

The quiet pulse of worth

So if you ever follow State Route 49 north of Springfield, look for the road that drops gently into the folds of those Tennessee hills. You’ll smell cut cedar and hear a hush like held breath. That’s Orlinda. Roll down your window and the place will introduce itself without words: the earth-rich odor from tilled fields, the faint cheer of hammer on old barn siding, the sweet-fat scent of fried pies cooling on a window sill. No street banner will greet you, no chamber-of-commerce brochure stuffed into your wiper blades. The welcome is softer—a nod from a seed cap, a wave of two fingers off a steering wheel, the implicit invitation to stay as long as your pulse needs to settle.

And when you leave—because everyone leaves sooner or later—carry the hush with you. Let it remind you that beyond the interstates and neon linen of our restless republic, there remain pockets of soil where history lies warm and beating, tended by hands that never asked to be famous, only faithful. In Orlinda the fields keep their patient rhythm, the grain mill keeps its silent watch, and the heartbeat of a small town keeps time for anyone willing to slow down and listen.

Storyteller Refuge

There's a profound feeling in finding a safe harbor amid the tempests of the road, especially when that refuge is offered freely by an old friend. Such was my fortune when I found myself welcomed into the home of
Al Pennington who lives just beyond the bustle of Birmingham, Alabama. His place became my sanctuary—at least for the last two nights—a respite from the weary miles stretched out behind me.
 
The lure of a warm bed, a hot shower, and the companionship of a fellow storyteller is enough to draw any traveler off his path for a while. I was no exception. I had pushed Josie about as hard as I dared, driving her five solid hours of undulating backroads. She coughed now and then, a mechanical grumble of protest, but she held together and delivered me to Al's doorstep without any real trouble.
 
Al and I go back to my days at MSNBC. I first sought him out after stumbling on some of his sharp-witted quotes in a newspaper, the specifics of which have faded with time. As a retired defense attorney with a career steeped in "been there, done that," he became a rich source of insight for the legal angles in my stories. Over the years, our professional exchanges blossomed into a genuine friendship.
One of Al's most remarkable traits is his gift for storytelling. He's unparalleled in weaving tales that draw you in, rich with humor and wisdom. Only my departed father and his brothers could rival his knack for spinning a yarn—but that's a tale for another day.
 
When I arrived, Al was out, but he'd left a key waiting for me. I eased myself out of Josie, giving her a reassuring pat and promising her a couple of days' rest. She didn't complain. Inside, I shook off the dust of the road, plugged in my ever thirsty electronics, and settled into the quiet comfort of his home.
It wasn't long before Al returned, and soon enough, stories began to flow. Noticing the weariness etched on my face, he grinned and said, "Looks like you could use a drink."
 
With that, he swung open two large cabinet doors in the kitchen, revealing a trove of spirits. "Help yourself to whatever suits you," he offered. Before I could decide, he pulled out an unassuming bottle of 20-year-old Irish whiskey. "Picked this up on my last trip to Ireland," he said, pointing to the label marked "Chinese Edition"—a limited run of just 3,000 bottles.
 
Curiosity piqued, I asked, "How did you come by a Chinese edition of Irish whiskey?"
"Well, that's a story," he replied with a twinkle in his eye.
 
Before I could decide, he pulled out an
unassuming bottle of 20-year-old Irish whiskey.
 
Al recounted how he'd sought shelter from the rain in a quaint Irish pub. The warmth inside was a welcome contrast to the dreary weather, and soon he found himself immersed in conversation. Drinking and storytelling went hand in hand that day. The bartender, charmed by Al's tales, remarked, "Are you sure you're not Irish? Because you tell stories like an Irishman!"
 
The bartender then suggested Al visit a local whiskey distributor, giving him a personal referral. Following the tip, Al met with the distributor, who revealed that he had a special stock—the "Chinese Edition" whiskey that, for reasons undisclosed, hadn't made its way to China.
 
"Because you come recommended," the distributor told Al, "I'll sell you one bottle. I guarantee you'll have the only one in the entire United States."
 
As Al finished his tale, he poured us each a glass. The whiskey glowed amber in the soft light, its aroma rich and inviting. We raised our glasses, and as the smooth liquid warmed me from the inside out, I knew I'd tasted something truly exceptional. It might just be the finest whiskey I've ever had the pleasure to sample.
That evening, time seemed to slow down. Surrounded by the comfort of an old friend's home, the miles and trials of the road faded away. Stories flowed, each one weaving into the next, punctuated by sips of rare whiskey. In those moments, I was reminded of the simple joys—a good tale, a fine drink, and the enduring bonds of friendship.
 
As the night deepened, I felt a deep sense of gratitude. For the roads that led here, for Josie carrying me, despite her quirks, and for friends like Al who open their doors and hearts without hesitation. It's these experiences that enriched my journey, turning miles into memories and strangers into companions, if even for a day.

Running on Empty

In the quiet hours of dawn, sitting in Josie’s cockpit, listening to the harmonies being played out between engine and wheels, I've had time to reflect on this journey. It's been a path lined with the faces and stories of ordinary people doing extraordinary things, threads woven into the rich tapestry of the American heartland. But now, as autumn leaves gather in the ditches and the chill of winter whispers in the wind, I find myself at a crossroads.
 
I set out with a mission to shine a light on the unsung heroes of our small towns, to share their tales of generosity and kindness. The road has been both my companion and my teacher, and each stop has reminded me of my belief in the inherent goodness that binds us together. Yet, despite frugal living—meals of grilled cheese, peanut butter and jelly, and the lowly Ramen noodle—the reality is that the fuel gauge is dipping toward empty and the money is drying up like a creek in a long drought.
 
I never imagined myself as someone to ask for help. That's just
pride, perhaps, or the stubborn notion that I should walk this path unaided.
 
I never imagined myself as someone to ask for help. That's just pride, perhaps, or the stubborn notion that I should walk this path unaided. But life has a way of humbling you and reminding you that we're all threads in the same fabric. So here I am, hat in hand now, reaching out to those who've walked alongside me in spirit, who've found some measure of inspiration or solace in the stories I've shared.
 
The truth is short and sharp: without more money, I may have to cut the tour short. The original funds, already less than hoped for, have dwindled. The road ahead is long, and there's so much more to uncover, so many voices yet to be heard. This journey isn't just mine; it's a collective odyssey that belongs to all who believe in the power of shared stories.
 
If these updates have resonated with you, if you've found a flicker of hope or a spark of generosity in the tales of these remarkable individuals, I ask you to consider helping to keep this journey alive. Any contribution, no matter how modest, becomes part of the engine that drives Josie and me forward. It's not just about me staying on the road; it's about us, together, continuing to shine a light into the quiet corners where the true heart of our nation beats.
 
I think of the farmer whose unwavering commitment to his small town shines bright, the volunteer librarian who reopened dusty doors, the countless hands that have reached out not for recognition but out of simple kindness. Their stories deserve to be told, to be heard, to remind us all of the goodness that persists even in trying times.
 
So I appeal to you now, not as a mere fundraiser, but as a fellow traveler on this winding road. If you're able and willing, please consider donating to the Hope & Generosity Tour. Let's keep the wheels turning, the stories flowing, and the hope alive.
 
Thank you for walking this path with me. Together we can ensure that the quiet voices are heard, that the unseen deeds are illuminated, and that the journey continues onward. If you’d like to contribute, just follow this link:
 
And remember to push that slider left to zero; otherwise, you’re going to tip GoFundMe for the privilege of donating...
 
Much appreciated.

Alternator Transplant

I climbed out, Josie’s engine still idling, and listened. Nothing. No distant dog, no lonely pumpjack. The hush felt ecclesiastical, the kind of silence that makes a man confess things. I imagined stepping into it, camera in hand, only to have Josie refuse resurrection when I returned—no crank, no cough, only that dead-key dread. There was no cell signal here; the map app had long ago entered its blank-screen shrug. A chill tiptoed down my spine. Adventure is a fine thing until you push past the far side of prudence and realize nobody knows where you’ve wandered. I weighed romance against reason, sighed, and let reason win for once.

Back in first gear, windshield fogging from my own breath, I swung west toward Glasgow—the nearest Walmart, civilization’s bright, humming surrogate for shelter. The plan: stake a corner of the parking lot, nap, refuel, find supper in some chain joint that smelled of fryer oil and nostalgia. Simple enough.

Silence Under the Hood

Josie groaned into the far end of aisle N, the place where eighteen-wheelers overnight and shopping carts go to die. Rain still pin-pricked the roof, but the nap that followed felt heavy, dreamless, overdue. An hour, maybe two, until a hunger pang hooked me like a fish. I rolled off the foam pad, shoes on, mind already ordering a double cheeseburger, and slid behind the steering wheel.

Key in. Turn.

Silence.

Not even the polite throat-clear cough of a battery trying. Just—nothing. The gut-punch variety.

I tried again, willed the dash lights to glow. Nothing. That new voltage regulator, the one installed only a week back with all the optimism of fresh gasket sealer, apparently wasn’t the hero I thought. My brain filed through possibilities: loose ground strap, bad ignition switch, poltergeist. The real culprit stepped forward wearing overalls and a smug grin—the alternator. Bigger fish.

I called Steve, my resident Vanagon whisperer, from the edge of the lawn-and-garden section where a single bar of service flickered like a dying filament. “Voltage regulator’s innocent,” I told him. “Battery’s flat dead. Has to be the alternator.” Steve hummed, asked the usual triage, then agreed. “You’re not stuck in that ghost-town void, are you?” he asked. I could hear his grin through the static. “Nope,” I said, “I dodged that bullet by three miles and one cemetery.” He paused a beat. “Lucky.”

Angels in Blue Vests

Now a flurry of tasks unspooled before me, boxes needed ticking in no short order.

Job One: secure an address for overnight shipping. Job Two: Find an alternator—an air-cooled, ninety-amp relic for a forty-two-year-old Volkswagen—in less than twenty-four hours.

I marched through the automatic doors, past the Black Friday displays that had sprouted like kudzu even though Thanksgiving was still ten days out, and flagged the store manager. Squat woman, friendly smile and inquisitive eyes behind discount spectacles, badge reading Carla. I delivered my plea with every ounce of wounded-pilgrim charm I possessed: stranded journalist, vintage van, part needed, FedEx, promise to intercept, no liability on your fine corporation. She winced, rubbed the back of her neck, mumbled something about corporate policy. I pushed. She called district. District put her on hold. We stood there side by side under the fluorescent buzz, both of us hostages to hold-music that sounded like a banjo falling down a stairwell. At last, approval—This once, under supervision, yadda yadda. I had my shipping address.

Finding the alternator proved trickier. Online listings taunted me: In stock! until checkout, when the inventory dissolved like morning frost. Two hours of browser refreshing and I landed on a parts house out west—family-owned, judging by the website design borrowed from 1998. Quantity available: 1. I stabbed the Buy button, paid an unholy sum for overnight freight, and prayed. One step closer.

Night Watch in the Tundra Lot

That evening the rain turned to sleet, pinging off Josie’s tin-top while I hunched over the old alternator with a headlamp, loosening belt tensioner bolts so tomorrow’s swap would go faster. My fingertips went numb; tools slipped. I surrendered and made a hasty retreat to the driver’s seat. I eventually cracked open a can of soup and heated it the camp stove, then let steam blur the windshield. The parking lot carousel spun: minivans, pickup trucks, the occasional sheriff cruiser eyeing my out-of-state tags. None bothered me. I was already part of the night’s tableau, another long-haul pilgrim hugging the sodium glow.

And somewhere between spoonfuls I realized the cosmic joke I’d escaped: had I found Alone proper, I might truly have been alone—dead battery, dead phone, no trucks, no soup steam, just coyote yips threading through tombstones. Sometimes mercy wears the disguise of mechanical failure in a safe zip code.

The Drop

Morning smeared pink over the asphalt. I stationed myself at the store’s receiving door like a faithful dog. The FedEx driver—middle-aged woman with MISS KITTY stitched on her jacket—handed over a box the size of a bowling ball. I signed, thanked her, scurried away before policy could reconsider.

Alternator surgery went smoother than I deserved. Belt off, three bolts out, wiring harness free. The old unit looked fine—aside from the faint rust freckles—but the post-mortem revealed the smoking gun: voltage regulator brushes miles from the commutator ring. I’d installed it cock-eyed, doomed from ignition. Cursed, laughed at myself, and kept wrenching. By noon the rebuilt West-Coast transplant was torqued, belt snug, battery reconnected.

Key in. Turn.

Roar—well, Volkswagen burble, but it sounded like heaven’s trumpets. Idiot lights winked, voltmeter climbed to a hearty thirteen-and-a-half volts. I whooped loud enough to startle a woman loading potting soil into her trunk.

Aftermath Reflections

With Josie idling, I leaned against the fender and watched my breath drift. In the grand ledger of disasters, an alternator in a Walmart lot is small potatoes. Yet it illuminated something bigger: every breakdown contains a fork. Go left and rage at circumstance. Go right and harvest a story, maybe a scrap of gratitude. I remembered the cemetery marker: ALONE. No dates, no epigraph. Maybe the town had died because folks gave up when the mill closed or the tracks were pulled up. Maybe they’d lost the will to improvise.

Glasgow wasn’t Alone. Carla the manager, Miss Kitty the driver, the unseen warehouse clerk pulling the last alternator—they’d formed an accidental pit crew to keep a stranger’s story rolling. 

I tightened the last bolt and wiped my hands on a rag so patched it resembled a Depression quilt. I climbed in, Josie rumbled forward, tires hissing on wet pavement, nose aimed south where another small-town water tower waited to test my resolve.

Ghost towns can keep their secrets. I’d trade any graveyard of lost houses for the living hum of a 14-volt charge, a warm can of soup, and the knowledge that even corporate bureaucracy sometimes bends in service of an aging van and the fool who drives her.

And if the next back-road dream lures me toward another spectral dot on the map, I’ll still chase it—but I’ll double-check my wiring, carry a spare alternator, and whisper thanks to all the anonymous hands that pulled me back from being truly, capital-letter Alone.

I’d come hunting ghosts—specifically, the ghost town of Alone, Kentucky, a name that felt less like geography and more like prophecy on a morning like this. The map insisted the settlement once sat just off this road, but several passes back and forth on this rain slick two-lane failed to turn up even the hint of a former town, except for the cemetery.

Here was a rectangle of iron fence, ragweed curling through the pickets, stones leaning like tired shoulders after a long harvest. Alone Cemetery the carved marker read, no dates, no flourish—just that single word daring heaven to prove otherwise. Headlights glanced off wet granite as I idled Josie at the shoulder. Rows of names—and among them, a scattering of unchiseled lamb statues for children gone before their first corn shuck—slid past beneath the wipers. And that was it. Beyond the gates lay nothing but soy stubble. The town itself had vanished so thoroughly even its bones were shy.

 
 
 
 

Mayday... Mayday!

Josie has broken down, this time in a major way. Her alternator appears shot. Although the repair can be done without having to drop the engine or anything near that drastic, this is still a major repair, and I am nowhere near being in an optimum position to pull this off.

Earlier in the day I was hunting for a bona fide ghost town known as Alone, Kentucky. The weather was miserable, overcast and raining on and off, and cold. A wind blew up that only made everything seem more miserable and more cold. And though I tried and tried, I just couldn't find the town. 

It's there on the map, if you zoom in far enough, but I had no way points to guide me, no street names to plug into the GPS. And although I found the Alone Cemetery, which sits just off the main road, the town was no where to be seen. Given the terrible weather, I accepted defeat and looked for the closest Walmart to hold up for the rest of the day and into the night.

That store was in Glasgow, Kentucky. I navigated Josie there with no problem, picked out my spot on the fringe of the parking lot and shut off her engine. After a half hour or so, I decided to head to a diner where I could get some hot coffee and recharge my electronics, which were running dangerously low on electricity.

I jumped in the driver's seat and turned the key only to hear the sickening sound of a slow "bur-rur-rur-rur"; the battery was nearly dead and I couldn't turn the engine over. I did some quick tests with a voltmeter and confirmed that the battery was low. But how?

The culprit now had to be the alternator, which, when working properly, drives all things electric when the van is running, as well as keeping the battery well charged. As I contemplated my next move, a thought sent sudden chills through me: If I'd actually found the town of Alone, that's exactly what I'd be right now, alone and stranded with a dead battery, instead of merely broken down in a Walmart parking lot. Thank God for small miracles...

My task at hand now was to first locate a replacement alternator. This proved more difficult than I would have imagined. In the course of my hunt, I learned that there was a "nationwide shortage" of alternators that would fit my engine. I finally tracked down a parts supply vendor online that promised they could secure me "the last one in the country we can find." It was located in California, a "new" rebulit alternator, which they could overnight to me (for an exhorbitant price, of course.)

The next hurdle was, though the part could be overnighted to me, exactly how should the part be delivered? It's not like FedEx or UPS has a habit of delivering to an address such as "Far end of the Walmart parking lot." 

My only option was to persuade the Walmart folks to let me use their store address as the drop-off point and send it to me "in care of" the store manager.

After much pleading and cajoling, I managed to get the store manager to allow me to proceed with the part being shipped to his store under my name, "in care of" him.

To make sure the receiving department at Walmart would be aware of the package coming the next day, I went to talk to the receiving manager. Well, the Walmart receiving manager tells me they don’t get FedEx or UPS deliveries until 11 a.m. Sigh.

My plan is to start removing the alternator now in hopes that I’ll have it out by the time the new one arrives, then all I’ll have to do is install it and be back in business.

Someday, looking back on all this, this episode will be a good after-dinner story to tell. But living it now is just total angst and with a pinch of desperation…

Travels

We're going nowhere and anywhere and we're not going fast. Traveling in Josie, this 42-year-old VW Vanagon is not an exercise in speed. She's pushing all of 67 horsepower; top speed rarely nudges above 60-mph. But this forced constraint means you have to slow down, giving you time to absorb the landscape, rather than curse the absence of an exit with amenities.

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Compass Point
After a whirlwind trip through Oklahoma, I'm now heading across Arkansas.
Fleeting Thoughts
Road trips may sound romantic and adventurous, these are seductions. Truth is, the loneliness of the road eats at you constantly.
Cuisine
Pro tip: Dinty Moore Beef Stew in a can will get you through the night, but it's not winning a Michelin star any time soon.